In Albania, relics of Cold War paranoia are gaining new purpose as tourist attractions, including hundreds of thousands of bunkers built under the communist regime of Enver Hoxha. Hoxha’s 44-year rule left Albania isolated, with borders sealed and thousands of bunkers dotting the landscape as his regime prepared for an invasion that never came. With as many as 221,143 bunkers scattered across the country, these structures have long served as reminders of Albania’s dark communist past.
Today, however, entrepreneurs and locals are reclaiming these spaces, transforming former military installations into restaurants, art galleries, guesthouses, and museums. This revival has helped fuel a tourism boom, offering visitors a unique way to experience Albania’s history and culture.
One standout project is Kazerma e Cerenit, a former military barracks near Tirana, now reimagined as a rustic restaurant and agrotourism hub. Owned by Albanian chef Ismet Shehu, who trained in the UK, Kazerma invites visitors to dine in a space that once housed military trucks. The preserved decor, including concrete columns, grenade crates, and vintage military memorabilia, highlights Albania’s cultural rebirth.
Shehu emphasizes that “Old is gold,” as he serves traditional Albanian dishes with a military-inspired presentation, such as dhallë (buttermilk) in aluminum canteen cups and duck and flija on field trays. His goal is to reclaim these old military sites as spaces for peace and enjoyment, symbolizing a stark transformation from their original purpose.
As Albania navigates its complex history, these reclaimed bunkers and barracks serve as powerful reminders of resilience, offering both locals and visitors a chance to experience Albania’s past in a new, hopeful context.